We were very nicely greeted and shown to our table, I will not bore you with all details, and here are the high lights:
Asparagus with 1998 Alzinger Steinertal Riesling Smaragd
Perfectly mature Austrian Riesling that totally matched the asparagus
Pork terrine and whitefish with 2003 M. Deiss Mambourg Alsace Grand Cru
Again, a great wine with utterly nice development (no problem with the warm year 2003).A remainder to drink more wines from M. Deiss!
Perch, crayfish butter with 2008 Kistler Les Noisetiers Sonoma
Ahh - the combo of the crayfish butter and the full, but very well balanced wine from Kistler was just to die for.
1st serving of lamb with 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru, Domaine Fourrier
The back of the lamb was served with a green herb sauce (Spanish chervil) just melted. The wine was good, but (in my opinion) the only wine this night that was not perfectly developed. It was still a bit one dimensional and "tight". It did open up a bit with air, but could probably benefit from a couple of years in the cellar. Very good anyway.
2nd serving of lamb with 1989 Talbot, Saint-Julien
We had discussed a Bordeaux with this course, and I had mentioned that perhaps a Saint-Julien would be well-suited - and it was! The wine was showing perfect maturity with loads of secondary aromas and still a good fruit core. The lamb was really great too!
Cheeses with 2007 Clos Naudin, Vouvray
Five really mature cheeses spanning from medium weight goat to a full and (maybe too) salty red rind cheese is a challenge for any wine, but this dry Chenin worked nicely.
Then two smaller desserts based on milk from a local cow: Calf dance and PM Single Cow Milk Cheese 2.0. Both tasted great, no wines.
Finally, rhubarb-pie and 2006 Tschida Angerhof BA from Seewinkel, NeusiedlerseeThe pie was actually rhubarb compote with a cover of a thin oat and fennel-seed cake, innovative and tasty. The fennel-seeds taste a bit of liquorice or anise; again difficult to match with wine. The Tschida BA worked really well - providing just the right balance of sweetness and acidity. Great wine too!
After almost five hours of extraordinary food & wine served and presented absolutely impeccably by Ruben, it was time to slowly walk back to the hotel in the warm summer night. A fantastic way to celebrate an anniversary and PM is most definitely worth a journey.
PS. Two minor remarks: the size of some portions is small, or even extra small. The good side is that you do not end up overly full and satisfied, the downside is that with each course there is a glass of delicious wine... the wine tends to "get you" a bit. I would gently suggest slightly larger portions. The other remark is the bill, it ends up north of 6000 SEK for two. Not unreasonable for the extraordinary quality of food, wine and service - but you should be prepared. And it will take some time to gather the necessary funds for our next visit. DS